Care and Maintenance of Perennials (2024)

FAQs

What is the maintenance of perennials? ›

Dig into the top 2 to 3 inches of soil with a trowel. If the soil is dry, water until the soil is moist to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Soaker hoses and drip irrigation pipes apply water more efficiently than overhead sprinklers. Avoid wetting plant leaves late in the day to prevent the spread of some plant diseases.

Most perennials are low-maintenance and easy to grow, including Echinacea, Phlox, and Black Eyed Susan.

Adequate Watering

Just as plants need sun and room to grow, they also need water. New plantings require deep, regular watering to prevent drying out, so be sure to soak the soil. Establishing a good root system during the first year's growth is important for the plant's continued health and vigor.

We recommend cutting back perennials in your garden (except for the ones mentioned above) after the weather has cooled down significantly, but before the snow flies. Most varieties like to be cut down several inches from the ground. If the plant is diseased, remember not to compost the foliage.

An advantage of perennials is that they require minimum maintenance. After establishment, most perennials require minimum pesticides or pruning. They just need well-drained soil that's amended with compost or organic matter.

Most perennials grow best in soil that is well drained with good fertility and a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. Adding organic matter to soil improves the fertility, texture, and water-holding capacity. Apply a two to three inch layer of mulch to conserve water, reduce the need to weed, and keep soil temperature cool.

While perennials offer many benefits to gardeners, there are also some disadvantages to keep in mind. One of the main drawbacks is their higher initial cost compared to annuals. Perennials are also slower to establish, meaning they may take a few years to reach their full potential.

How Long Do Perennials Live? Once planted, perennials come back each year. Depending on the type of plant you've planted, they can live anywhere from 3 to 15 years!

Perennials left in place slowly break down over the winter. Of course, some stand longer than others, lasting into or even through the winter months with dead foliage or stems in place.

Feeding for Flowers and Long-Lasting Beauty

Start perennials at planting time and each spring thereafter with a complete, balanced fertilizer — one that provides equal percentages of the three primary plant nutrients: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

Why are all my perennials dying? ›

Overwatering is one of the more common causes of plant problems. Damage caused by overwatering is frequently misdiagnosed as pest problems. Roots growing in waterlogged soil may die because they can't function properly from a lack of oxygen in the soil.

Water regularly

After planting and applying mulch, water slowly and deeply. Keep soil moist but not saturated for at least three months after planting. Once the plant is established, you can reduce watering to suit your plant's needs and soil.

Most gardeners do it because it aesthetically looks better when dead plant material is removed, such as peonies and annual pinks (Dianthus chinensis). Deadheading can prevent self-seeding of plants that you don't want to spread, such as clustered bellflower (Campanula glomerata).

As a general rule of thumb, you will usually fertilize perennial plants at least twice a year: in the early spring when new growth begins to emerge, and again in early fall. Too, any time you cut a perennial back during the active growing season, a feeding is usually beneficial.

Pruning Perennials – General Pruning

In early spring, old foliage should be removed from most plants. Many spring blooming perennials should be pruned just after the blossoms fade. Perennial plants which bloom during summer and fall should be pruned in spring to create bushier, more floriferous plants.

Apply mulch or compost at a depth no more than 1 to 2 inches, for most perennials. Tender perennials, such as elephant ears, can be protected with a heavier layer of straw or shredded wood mulch (4-6 inches) that can be removed in early spring to allow new growth to emerge.