4. Plant in Blocks, Not Rows
Traditionally vegetable gardens are planted in straight rows with room between to walk. This layout requires season-long hoeing to keep the rows free of weeds. A better idea, especially on a small plot, is to plant in blocks with the same spacing in all directions. Ignore seed packet suggestions that instruct to “…plant beans 3” apart in the row but then 2’ between rows.” The beans will grow just as well 3” apart north and south and 3” apart east and west. Yields will be higher by planting in blocks, and more garden space will be devoted to production and less to unnecessary walking (and hoeing) space.
5. Varieties Make a Huge Difference
The fancy names you see on seed packets (‘Big Boy’ tomatoes, ‘County Fair’ cucumbers, ‘King Arthur’ peppers, for example) aren’t just cutesy variations of the same thing. Some varieties perform markedly better than others under differing circ*mstances. Some are bred or selected primarily for best taste, while others vary in time to harvest, overall yield, or ability to fight off bugs and disease. Select high-quality seeds from name companies such as Park Seed, Burpee, Renee’s Garden, Cook’s Garden, or Botanical Interests among others. Experiment each year until you find the particular varieties that you prefer and that perform best in your garden. Also do homework by asking veteran gardeners their favorites or consulting your local county Cooperative Extension office.
6. It’s Not Just a May Thing
Many beginner gardeners think “planting the vegetable garden” is a one-day affair, done right after the threat of frost is gone in spring, earlier in warm winter zones. That’s good timing for season-long warm-weather crops including tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, squash, cucumbers, pumpkins and melons, but it’s too late for crops that prefer cool weather. Vegetables such as peas, onions, lettuce, spinach, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, and radishes are best planted in cool weather – including as soon as soil is workable, weeks before the last spring frost in the North. They’ll mature before hot weather turns them bitter or causes them to shut down altogether. In the south these are considered winter crops. Get to know ideal planting times for each crop in your particular area. Typically, Cooperative Extension offices have localized lists. The most productive vegetable gardens have no empty spaces throughout the growing season. Plant throughout the season. Keep young plants of another crop ready to fill the gaps. As one crop is harvested, fill the space with something seasonally appropriate.
7. Consistent Water
Water is the magic ingredient in vegetable gardening. Lack of it causes the intense growth of vegetables to short-circuit, and if the soil gets dry enough result in wilting. The plants may die of thirst or at the least yield will be compromised. Water often enough that the soil is always moist, but not enough that it becomes soggy. Add sufficient water so that the soil is damp to the root zone. Check with a pencil or stick to determine how deep the water has gone. Repeat watering if it remains dry at the base. Watering may be required every day or two in hot, dry weather. Raised beds dry out faster than in-ground plantings.
8. Control Those Weeds
Weeds compete for nutrients and moisture in the garden. Yank them as soon as any emerge and definitely before they go to seed. Better yet, put down a light layer of mulch of chopped leaves or straw between plants to suppress weeds and conserve moisture. In addition, discourage weeds by applying granular Preen Natural Vegetable Garden Weed Preventer every 4 weeks around established plantings.
